Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.